Chris here,
Yesterday I witnessed Keʻili engaging her rail and gliding down the face of a wave on a recycled Albizia wood surfboard. The moment was proudly perpetuated in joy. These surf boards are called Alaia (ah-la-ee-ah) and they are very special to our small friend group of wave riders.
I was first introduced to this style of wave riding by uncle Leleo Kinimaka who gifted our family with a beautiful masterpiece alaia crafted from wood of Koa, ‘Iliahi, Mango and Monkeypod. For years it hung on our wall as an art piece, until the allure of its ovoid nose, parabolic rails and meandering book matched woodgrain cried out for saltwater. First experience was an hour of hardly being able to paddle it, continuously going over the falls and as soon as I tried to stand up, face-planting. It was more humbling than learning how to surf for the first time. On the 132435678th attempt, the wood began to plane, the rail engaged and I was flying across the ocean on that thin piece of wood. Emotionally carbonated with joy with no one around to witness.
Freedom.
A few weeks later I got a message, “eh boy, my truck stay parked Kapiolani park, get one green alaia for you in da back, grab um!” - Leon Mosher, who kindly blessed me with board to ride for years. His boards can be seen ridden by the masters of Makaha at uncle Buffalos annual surf event with a wood burned “Kakahiaka”.
Since then, its been almost a decade of fun, learning how to shape, exploring different outlines, woods and waves around the world on these fully compostable surfboards.
These boards continue to teach about the ocean, and their peculiar way of flying across the water has sparked friendships from the pae ‘āina, to the states, to eastern Australia, southern Thailand, Indonesia and Peru.
For me, it’s not necessarily about the niche cool factor or cultural significance. Moreover it’s the freedom in harnessing the power of the ocean. This innate drive is why we wonder back at the style of ancient Kupuna. Absolute effective technology, found in Ahupua’a, food, crafts, songwriting and voyaging. Riding Alaia is my gateway to a more intricate ocean life.
We have a very invasive tree called Albizia, that was foolishly brought to our islands in 1917. Since then it has populated our forest with a major environmental impact. Amongst many attempts to remove them, a local company called the Albizia project, has given me the opportunity to use the wood to produce Alaia boards for the public.
You can find some of them here!
https://www.biziasurf.com/collections/surfboards
To see Ke’ili ride a wave on it was beautiful. I’m sure she felt her ancestors' joy too. Funny how a little act like surfing can turn into a subconscious study of hydrodynamics, carpentry, dendrology, Hawaiian history and philosophy all in one quick experience! I encourage you to keep exploring a craft that helps interpret the world. There are so many . . .
-Chris
Beautiful Boards !!